(Chainmaille, some wire wrapping)  My favorite metal, especially paired with argentium silver as above.  The colors produced when niobium is anodized are brilliant and iridescent, and they come in subtle variations of hue that make it possible to create gradient pieces.  Also, because it is an elemental metal and not an alloy, it's extremely rare for people with metal sensitivities to have reactions to it (and I guarantee that, although if you're violently allergic to metals you assume responsibility medically.. but I will replace/refund the item).

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(Chainmaille & Wire Wrapping)  Sterling silver is an alloy made with fine silver and copper (and sometimes other things, including nickel, which is why some people react to it).  Argentium (TM) is a recently produced metal that alloys silver with germanium instead of copper.  This means that it tarnishes a lot more slowly than standard sterling.  I use as much of it as I can, although some wire wrapping and some findings are still sterling.

(Chainmaille and Wire Wrapping) When an item is plated, the metal is bonded onto the surface of another (cheaper) metal by electrochemical means.  Plated items have a very thin coating that wears off over time.  Gold-filled items, on the other hand (I think the name is misleading) are a base metal such as brass with a layer of gold heat-bonded onto it. 10 karat gold filled has to have at least 10% gold comprising the weight of the item.  This means that the gold layer will not rub off the way cheap plated items do.

(Chainmaille and wire wrapping) This is a base of copper, sometimes plated with silver, then covered with a layer of clear or colored enamel.  This means a couple of things:  1) You shouldn't react to it; 2) a huge range of brilliant colors is possible, 3)  It's really affordable, and 4)  It won't tarnish (although lighter colors and in particular silver may yellow over time).  It also means it's not the strongest material, so I try to use it only in places it won't be bearing a lot of stress.

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(Chainmaille only... I value my fingers)  I have a love/hate relationship with steel.  In larger gauges it is brutal on my hands, but the finished product is TOUGH.  And it has a sort of industrial elegance.  Both of which make it really cool for manly stuff... but it's great for ladies too; I wear it all the time.

(Mostly Chainmaille and scales, occasional Wire Wrapping)  You get nice, distinct, primary colors with anodized aluminum.  My new supplier creates "AA" with a brilliant shine on it too, which is important to me because I'm a magpie.  It's also super lightweight so you'll hardly notice it there.  The non-anozided silver aluminum I use is "bright" aluminum that I tumble until it's brilliantly shiny (some of my customers say it looks like sterling but the weight gives it away). 

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(Chainmaille only)  EPDM is a durable polymer (stretchy plastic) that is non-latex and pretty sturdy.  It's the material I use most in my stretchy, claspless bracelets and other items. I also use neoprene rings occasional (also a polymer), which come in a slightly greater variety of colors but are slightly less durable.  I also have glow-in-the-dark/UV reactive silicone rubber rings that are incredibly fun but not durable at all, which means I can't use them in any weave where they have to bear weight for the stretch... but I've found some ways to use them where they don't need to bear any weight. If you spend any time under black light you need them. :)

Color Choices

(Chainmaile & Wire Wrapping)  Copper has the loveliest warm hue when it's shiny, and it also looks really interesting when oxidized - the bracelet above is half and half.  It also has many reported health benefits, primarily relief of arthritis.  I use uncoated solid copper, so if you're looking for such benefits my copper jewelry is perfect.  I've also found it to be an amazing conductor of energy, so I use it a lot in metaphysical pieces.

(Chainmaille only)  I don't use much brass and brnoze these days.  Their main benefit is being stronger than copper (and bronze resembles copper so that it's pretty hard to tell the difference).  But if you're looking for healing or energy from your copper, these alloys aren't what you need.  Still, it's an option if you really like them.  Covered under lifetime care policy.

I obtain my cabochons and stone beads  mainly from a variety of reputable online suppliers, and I do my best to obtain genuine stones of the type they're supposed to be (turquoise, I'm talking to you), and also natural untreated stones where possible. Keep a weather eye on the Stones page for the ones I have in stock, but if there's a stone you're particularly drawn to I can almost certainly get my hands on one for you.  The stone in the picture is chrysocolla.

I'm not much of a bead stringer, but give me something fiddly to do and I'm all for it.  The beads used in these Peyote woven items are Japanese delicas, perfect cylinders that tile together one bead at a time, with a needle and thread, to create a piece that has the feel of glass fabric (essentially what it is).  I also use similar sized round Japanese beads and sometimes Czech glass, for delicate, lacy, net woven items.  You can fit about five of these little guys on a grain of rice. Are these finished items expensive? Yeah.  The time involved is ridiculous.

I confess to being a crystal snob.  Yes, Swarovski leaded crystal is more expensive, but you can tell the difference.  The shimmer on these is gorgeous and I use them in a variety of applications, to dress up both maille and wire.